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Successful breeding techniques for Congo Tetras **New 2022

Congo tetras are often regarded as the most beautiful tetras among fish keepers. They are among the largest and most attractive tetras because of their brightly colored bodies. You can tell them apart even from a distance because of their very long fins.

At least 7 to 10 of them should be kept together for their safety. Choosing the other species in a communal aquarium might be tricky. It will be difficult for Congo tetras to defend themselves if they are housed among other fin-nipping species, which may cause them discomfort. They may become ill or maybe die shortly.

Breeding Congo tetras is not recommended for beginners. When things don’t go your way, it may be discouraging. However, if you’ve had success breeding other species, you might want to consider trying your hand at breeding Congo tetras instead. Here are some helpful hints –

Keep a separate tank just for breeding purposes. This is necessary to keep predators away from the eggs and young. Despite the tank’s tiny size, it should be filled with plants, particularly big-leaf varieties. You should also check on the tank’s water quality as a final precaution.

Adults need to be fed various foods to prepare them for spawning, including live ones. After relocating them to this breeding tank, raise the temperature to breed well.

Select the best-colored males and females for breeding purposes. This is critical to ensuring that your fries are both nutritious and vibrant.

After spawning, the eggs should fall through the mesh base of the breeding tank and be separated from the adults. To defend themselves, the adults will consume the eggs.

This breeding tank should not have any intense lighting and should be kept from direct sunlight. For the sake of their rapid and healthy growth, young children should also be exposed to this level of light.

After spawning, the eggs will be dispersed around the tank. Within a week, the female lays about 300 eggs.

Around seven days will be needed for the incubation of these eggs. During this time, keep a close eye on all the eggs since they are more susceptible to fungal growth. It is imperative to remove any eggs that appear to be abnormal from the tank immediately.

For the first 24 hours, the fry will rely on their yolk sacs for sustenance. You should next give them baby brine shrimp and micro worms.

As a reminder, you should remember that fry is particularly sensitive to water quality. Their growth and color may be hampered if you cannot maintain high water standards and other surrounding conditions. When you neglect them, they might perish in vast numbers.

It would help if you kept in mind a few things when caring for a fish like this one. Growth slows down if the fry is under stress.

In the right atmosphere and proper nutrition, adulthood may be achieved within four to six weeks. To appreciate their dazzling colors and attractive design, you may transfer them to your main aquarium after this period.

 

Origin and spread

It’s where these African characin fish live. They live in streams, tributaries, pools, and marshes. They prefer murky, slightly acidic water. The Congo tetra likes to live in areas with tall vegetation, few trees, and soils of sand, silt, and mud. The Tetra live in large groups and eat worms, crustaceans, insects, plant matter, and algae while swimming together in the water.

This species wasn’t found until 1949, and it wasn’t common in fish tanks until the 1960s. During the 1970s, fish farms in Florida learned how to breed fish, and most specimens found in pet stores come from this line. They will have all of the color and beautiful trailing tails of the fish that live in Africa.

 

There are many different colors and markings to choose from.

The fish in nature is about 4 1/2 inches long. If you raise your own, you can expect them to grow to about 3 or 3 1/2 inches. Even if they have full fins and a lot of colors, they usually won’t grow past that. They have long, flat bodies with a lot of big scales. This fish has a rainbow glow that runs from the back to the front of its body. Often, they’re blue on top, red or gold in the middle, and blue on the bottom. A male’s tail fin is long and flowing and is violet with white edging. Males also have long, flowing fins that are violet with white edging on the sides.

 

Tankmates

Congo tetras are fish that like to swim in groups. If they are not part of a group of at least six fish of the same species, they can become stressed. As long as they are kept with fish of the same size or smaller, Congo tetras tend to be peaceful. Other tetras, rainbowfish, and Corydoras catfish are good tankmates for tetras.

 

Avoid aggressive species because they will bully your Congo tetras if they are in your tank. Do not keep Congo tetras with fish that like to bite their fins because the males’ fins will be ripped off.

They live in a habitat and need to be looked after

Congo tetras can be hardy, but only if kept in the right places. They like still, dark, soft, peat-filtered water, and not very bright. You can also make this happen if you have dim aquarium lights and floating plants. They like dark soil and want to eat plants that grow at the bottom of the garden.

 

When you want to keep your fish healthy, you’ll need to give them a lot of room and water that has been filtered very well. If the quality of the water goes down, Congo tetras might lose some of their colors or have their fins broken. 1

 

Food and Feeding for Congo Tetra

These fish are omnivores. They like to eat bugs and worms, plants, algae, and other fish in nature. As pets, they are simple to feed. Some of their favorites are brine shrimp and blood worms. They like live, fresh, and flaky foods, as well as these: Do not give them a lot at once. They should get small amounts of food several times a day. Take it easy if you don’t see your Congo tetras come to the food. They can be shy about eating when they are being watched. If you use a ” behavioral feeding circle, ” it might help if fish aren’t getting enough food if you use a “behavioral feeding circle.”

Feeding rings are an excellent choice for your fish.

 

Sexual Differences

Males are a lot more colorful than females. They are also much more significant and have a more complicated fin structure, with a centrally extended caudal fin and a large and prominent dorsal fin. The females are mostly golden, but they also have a few shades of silver and green, like this one. Females don’t have fins like that.

 

It is essential to raise the Congo Tetra.

Because the breeders are more prominent than most tetras, you’ll need a bigger tank for them to breed in. They’ll also lay 300 or more eggs, and most will hatch. Four or five weeks after they start, they’ll be more significant than full-grown neon tetras.

 

Use a tank at least 15 or 20 gallons long for your breeding project. Ten gallons are not the best size for your project. It will take about 1/2 cubic foot of peat moss to fill a 20-gallon long tank with 1 inch of loosely packed moss. If you live in a rural area, you can add it to a tank that already has reverse osmosis, water that has been distilled, or rainwater. Let it sit for a few days so the peat moss can settle.

 

Place a lot of thickets of Java moss on top of the peat moss substrate in many places. Add more nylon breeding mops or clumps of plants with small leaves. Seventy-seven degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature for the water in your bathtub or shower. Peat moss should not be stirred up or filtered because this would make the water cloudy.

 

It’s about time to put a well-behaved pair of Congo tetra into the breeding tank. You can do this right before the lights go out or right before the sun goes down. When the lights come back on, most pairs will start having babies. Dark should be kept for at least eight hours.

 

The spawning fish dive into the Java moss or spawning mops and start swimming around in the next step. Each time they make these dives, they let out eggs and milt simultaneously. The eggs stay on the plant or mop in some cases, but most fall into the peat moss soil. Remove the breeders, but most eggs won’t be eaten because they’re well hidden under the peat moss.

 

Usually, 300 to 500 eggs are laid, hatching in five to eight days. People in South America are very different from this. Their eggs hatch much faster, but their young stay on plants for a long time because they are small and helpless at first. Fry that emerges from the peat substrate is already swimming freely and hungry when they do.

 

They can be fed infusoria for about a day or two before eating baby brine shrimp. They will increase and eat powdered dry food in two weeks. They will soon be almost an inch long. Within three months, if they eat many live and commercial growth foods, they will be two inches long and show signs of color. Until they are six months old and three inches long, they can’t breed. With this rapid growth, the need for a bigger tank is clear.

 

To keep the fry growing, it is essential not to remove the peat from the tank. The fish need it to keep the water clean, and if you put them in freshwater right away, they might get fungus. The adult fish also like peat moss in the filter or on the ground.

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